Trout Unlimited - Colorado Cheyenne Mountain Chapter - Backpacking in the Sangre De Cristos

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Backpacking in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains

Independence Day On Music Pass By Jack Hunter

The Sangre De Cristo Mountain Range in Southern Colorado and New Mexico is some of the most beautiful and rugged country you’ll find in the lower 48 states. The English translation of Sangre De Cristo is “Blood of Christ”. Legend has it that the Spanish named these mountains when they arrived in southern Colorado in the 1700’s but actually, this name can only be accurately dated back to the early 1900’s. As any of you that have spent time in this range know, the name is fitting given the reddish hue of the rock that is intensified in a blazing Colorado sunset. You can learn more about the Sangre De Cristo Mountain Range at; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sangre_de_Cristo_Mountains

My wife Jeanne and I love this range and we try to take a few days every year to spend some time hiking and fishing the many trails, streams and lakes that are part of the Sangre de Cristo landscape. We use this time to recharge our spirits and renew our bonds with each other and with nature. This year we decided on a 4 day backpacking trip near Music Pass on the back side of the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Our destination was Sand Creek Lakes where the Rio Grand Cutthroats are big and beautiful. We started out early on the 4th of July and headed down to Westcliffe Colorado which is our traditional launching point for most of our trips to the area. We verified all our gear and made sure we had our two Golden Retrievers, Dakota and Montana in tow and then headed for the Music Pass trail head

The Sand Creek Lakes are accessed from the Music Pass trail head. The trailhead is accessed from Highway 69, 4.5 miles south of Westcliffe. Turn off Highway 69 to the west at the sign for Music Pass and South Colony Lakes Trailhead. At the “T” junction, turn left onto South Colony Road. At the end of the ranch fence on the right, you'll see another sign for Music Pass. 2WD vehicles should park where the Rainbow Trail crosses Music Pass Road. From here, walk 2.5 miles to the upper parking area, then another mile to the pass. Those with FWD vehicles may drive another 2.5 rough miles to the end of the road, just one mile below the pass and 3 miles from Sand Creek Lakes.

The hike in to Sand Creek Lakes certainly isn’t easy carrying a heavy pack but I’d call it moderate generally and especially so for the Sangre’s which are notoriously steep. The trail starts out in the trees and quickly rises above tree line. As you summit Music Pass about a mile from the trail head you cross into the Great Sand Dunes National Monument. Make sure you have a leash for your dogs as they are required in all national parks. The scenery from the top of the pass is nothing short of spectacular

From the summit you drop into a high mountain meadow. At the end of this meadow the trail splits. The trail to the left goes to lower Sand Creek Lake and the trail to the right goes to Upper Sand Creek Lake. Given that we wanted to fish both lakes while we were there we made our camp where the trail splits.

With camp set up, Jeanne was making one of her special backpacking meals for which she is famous. I on the other hand was tending to the important task of making some cocktails of Crystal Light and Vodka. For those that have read my previous columns, you may have noticed my slight pre-occupation with beer. Suffice to say that beer is a bit too heavy to haul up the mountain side so you have to make due. If you ever backpack with me watch your pack closely as I’ve been known to stash a few cans of beer in other people’s packs for the ride up and then recover them later when they’ve reached the final destination.

The four of us woke early the next day for a great breakfast and some hot coffee & tea. Even in mid-summer the mornings are cool at 10,000 feet elevation. We gathered our gear and hit the trail to lower Sand Creek Lake about 9:00AM or so… We arrived at the lake after a short, steep hike. It was easy with our packs at about 20% of the weight we were carrying the previous day. Our first look around the lake revealed we were all but alone with the exception of a couple that had camped at the lake the previous night who were sitting on a rock having coffee. Soon our attention was turned to the lake it self by the loud splashing of 10”-15” Rio Grande Cutthroat trout. We dropped our packs and got busy rigging our rods for the days fishing. I started with a Schroeder’s Para-Hopper, Jeanne had on an Elk Hair Caddis. We each caught several fish right off including a couple over 14” Cuts. These fish were spectacular in their full spawning colors. Most were so picture perfect it was hard to believe they were real. All of the traditional high mountain lake patterns were effective, Renegades, Irresistibles, Para-Adams, you know the ones.

We broke for lunch and then decided to move around the lake for some exploring. We hiked around to the inlet where we saw fish spawning by the Hundreds. A true regalia of royal colors packed into a stream you could easily step across. These fish we’re so exposed and so vulnerable yet so strong and so competent in their primeval mission to reproduce that it truly was awe inspiring. Needless to say, we left these fish to their business being careful not to disturb their beds and mindful of Dakota’s and Montana’s curiosity.

Speaking of Dakota and Montana, they are some of the best fishing dogs on the planet. They sit by your side opposite your casting hand and patiently wait for the strike. Dakota being a bit older and wiser has actually been known to spot the fish for you. And will give you that look of distain if you happen to miss a strike. Montana being somewhat more of a puppy gets bored if the catching isn’t as good as the fishing. Jeanne and I love to fish with our dogs and do so when ever we can without disturbing others.

The day ended as most days in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains do. Fun was had by humans and dogs a like; many fish were caught and released, and fresh air enjoyed by all.

We returned to camp at dusk, lit the fire, and had some great camp food and a couple of cocktails around the camp fire. The evening was beautiful and clear and the Milky Way gleamed in the night sky as it has for eons bringing home the realization that the planet Earth is truly a small speck in a remote corner of the immense universe we live in. It makes a person wonder, how many more trout streams are out there?

We rose early again the next day for a hike to the upper lake. The trail is longer and steeper than the one to the lower lake. However, some of that is made up for by the spectacular view of Sand Creek that can be glimpsed from some of the promenades along the trail. Waterfalls abound, downed trees make a labyrinth of moss, ferns and wild flowers for the many critters that live in these woods

We reached Upper Sand Creek Lake around 10:00AM. The weather was blustery, with high, fast moving clouds and cool winds. The upper lake is larger and more exposed. Much of the shore line is covered with thick willows and high banks making casting from shore a real challenge so be sure to bring your roll casting skills. The fishing was tough the first half of the day and we bounced from one spot to the next pursuing trout.

With the experience of seeing the spawning Rio Grande’s in the lower lake still fresh in our minds we made our way towards the inlet of the upper lake. Fish were stacked in the shallows near the small intermittent snow field fed stream. These fish, larger and even more plentiful than those we saw the day before were a sight to behold. Literally hundreds lined up for a turn to run up the stream driven by instinct millions of years in the making. However, even these sage masters of their environment could not make their way past the steep rock face that was the end of the stream entering the lake. I have to assume that given the apparent health of the population that reproduction in the lake is working just fine but the drive to move up stream persists in these Cutthroats none the less

As we moved around the lake, Dakota spotted some nice fish in a cove near an ice field on the face of the mountain. We fished to these guys with a mixture of frustration and wonder. Frustration in that we couldn’t get them to look at anything we tossed their way and wonder at their size and beauty. Some of these fish passed the 20” mark I finally managed to hook one using a midge pattern below a hopper… The fight was on!

As we made our way back around the lake for the hike back to camp we found a nice point where fish were rising. Jeanne and I put on some hoppers and took some really nice fish from this spot. To my disappointment, I caught what appeared to be a rainbow trout in this Cutthroat fishery. It was better than 21 inches and in the neighborhood of 4 pounds. I released it after a good fight but not without some trepidation wondering out loud to Jeanne if it was supposed to be there at all.

We made our way back to camp for another great meal, a small fire and some good conversation reliving the past days adventures. We retired under the spectacular sky and slept well as most people do in this place.

Our trip ended the next day with the hike out. Packs and hearts lighter, spirits recharged, bonds with loved ones and nature renewed. Dakota and Montana were happy and tired as we’re Jeanne and I which is a sure sign of a great backpacking trip. We reluctantly left this place with another adventure in the Sangre’s securely under our belts and forever in our memories.

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