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Beginners Guide to Fly Fishing

A primer for the beginning fly angler’s gear-by Richard Luce

Ever wondered what it would be like to heft a nine-foot graphite rod with the right size line and leader and confidently go looking for wild trout on one of our Colorado streams? I think that all fishermen have had that dream at one time or another. This guide is strictly for the beginning fisherman or fisherwoman, who would like to try a different type of fishing from what they currently enjoy.

The gear and lore of fly-fishing at first puts many people off. It is often viewed as stuffy and elitist. With the dawn of the modern fishing age, which we are now well into, these stereotypes no longer apply to the vast majority of people who currently fly-fish our local waters.

These “new fisherman or fisherwomen” were once just like you, true anglers who just wanted a new and different way to ply their hobby or, as some would have it, their obsession.

Can everyone do it? Yes, if you have the requisite determination and a modicum of dexterity. Does everyone enjoy it the first time they try it? No, it can be frustrating until that first fish. Can it become an obsession? Yes. Is it the best way to fish? No, not always, though some would argue this point. Why do so many fly-fishermen and fisherwomen tend to become flies only types? This is a tough question and one that has many answers. There are perhaps as many answers to this question as there are fly-fishing anglers. To some it is a chance to trick one of nature’s beautiful, wily creatures into our hands, for others, it is a chance to spend a full day in a beautiful, natural place waving a plastic stick. For still others, it is a chance to experience that long ago past of hunting (fishing) for our existence.

It is often said that fly anglers go through distinct phases in their development.

1. Catch a fish (any fish)
2. Catch a lot of fish
3. Catch a big fish
4. All fish (of any size) are beautiful and too valuable to catch only once (Catch & Release)

Trout Unlimited is dedicated to protecting and improving coldwater habitat for all of Colorado’s trout. This chapter urges all anglers to use catch and release fishing while on stream or lake. As Colorado grows, there is an ever, greater stress on the trout population inhabiting our state’s waters. If you want that beautiful fish to become a “monster” remember, it needs to be released. We would urge all anglers to join a fishing club or TU Chapter to help protect our cold water resources for future generations. (quotes from noted fishermen on why they fish)

Gear for the Beginner

If you have a limited budget to work with, as most beginners do, you may want to find a prepackaged (rod, reel, line, leader and a couple of flies) deal at the local discount store. This entry-level outfit (Scientific Anglers and Cortland, among others make these outfits) is just that. Not to be confused with quality gear to be had at your local fly shop or tackle store. That being said, however, it is very serviceable and doesn’t cause a river of tears if something bad happens to it on-stream (beginners tend to have a lot of these). Mishaps do occur to gear and this is why most current “name brand” rod manufacturers offer lifetime or similar guarantees for their products. Discount gear is usually not to be counted on for long, term service. A couple of seasons, of casual use, are about all that can be expected from such gear. Usually, this is enough to get a new fly angler through those difficult early years.

Fly rods for typical use in trout fishing in Colorado

Rods in the lengths of 7 ½ foot to 9 foot long are considered standard for our local trout fishing. Length is an advantage to keeping the line, leader and fly from hitting either the ground behind you or the water in front of you while casting. Length can work to your disadvantage, if you like to fish small, brushy streams where casting is tight. Conversely, a short rod can be more difficult initially to learn to cast, but, comes into its own on those often brushy, small streams. The type of fishing you intend to do, should influence your rod choice.

When we speak of the name brand rods, we are generally speaking of those sold at the fly-fishing or tackle shops. Typical name brands are: Sage, Orvis, T&T, Winston, St Croix, Loomis, Reddington, Scott, Diamondback and Powell to name only a few. These are rods of much higher quality than those offered in the discount stores. They have prices ($250-700.00) to match that higher quality (note: most rods do come with a breakage warranty, generally for the life of the rod). They are offered to those who have a good idea of what type of fly-fishing they will be doing and that it will probably become a major life interest.

Beginners are encouraged to take time to test cast some of the finer rods at your local fly shop. You might find one that you like and some day come into an inheritance or some such thing and be able to purchase one of these modern-day wonders. Quality fly rods can be homemade from what are called blanks. The blank is just that, a plastic rod tube of quality design that the rod builder (you) attaches the reel seat, handle and fittings to, for a nice rod at a bargain price.

Matching Line weight with the Chosen Rod

Remember, that in fly-fishing, due to the lightweight of the terminal fly, it is the weight of the line that the angler is casting. All fly rods are made with a specified line weight to be used with them. Usually, the required line weight is indicated on the rod. Very light weight rods would be #2 & 3. Normal trout weights would be #4, 5 and 6.

Rods more suited to bass fishing and pike would be #7, 8, 9, and 10 etc. The line indication of a rod is only a guideline and is to be taken as a general guide for selecting a certain rod. Most rods will carry a line weight one size lighter or heavier than its designation. Sometimes this makes a bulky rod into a better casting tool. It is highly recommended that you pick-up and try (at least false cast), any rod you may be contemplating buying. At a fly shop or tackle dealer, insist on a trial run of casting with line and reel on the rod to get its feel.

If you are shopping at a dealer, rather than a discounter, insist on trying numerous rods in different lengths and weights to see how they feel to you. Most shops have a number of rods that one is able to rent for a day’s fishing for a fee. The prices at the shops (high) mean that you don’t want to be wrong when picking your rod. It is also recommended that you tell the dealer at a shop what kind of fishing that you will be doing, to help him or her, pick the right type of rod for you. Remember that a full service fly shop or fishing dealer can be your best friend when you’re beginning your fly-fishing journey.

For those beginners picking a discount rod package, you are more or less at the mercy of the company who packaged the rod components. Usually, these are pretty well matched to each other. If for some reason, the rod just doesn’t respond as you think it should, bring the rod package into any Cheyenne Mountain Chapter of Trout Unlimited Membership Meeting for a quick evaluation by one of the members. They should be able to set you straight as to what is wrong with the outfit. Remember, discount packages are a bit of a gamble on the quality side, but the price is right, so buyer beware. The usual weak link in the discount package outfit is the line that comes with the rod. The rod is most important in fly-casting with the line coming in a close second. It is recommended that any new outfit be refitted with a quality line from one of the fly shops (Cortland, Orvis, Scientific Anglers, Rio, etc. make quality lines). Use the line that came with the outfit as a backup only. This in itself will probably improve your casting ability enough to catch that first fish on a fly.

Remember, you will need a full floating line in either a DT-double taper or WF-weight forward in the appropriate weight for your rod (3,4,5,6).

Any old line that you might have lying around is subject to damage from sun and heat. The typical older fly line fails when it becomes cracked and loses its integrity with nicks and gaps in the plastic coating. If you can see the solid white core of a fly line, it is damaged beyond help. Your casting depends a slick line in good condition. Don’t bother trying to overcome the defects of a damaged line. Your fishing fun depends on having this item in good shape. It needs to be cleaned often and not abused for multi-season use.

Always connect the correct end of the fly line to your reel or a running line, which is used to extend the typical 90 foot fly line. Running line can be any light Dacron or monofilament line which is put on your reel to guard against being “spooled” or broken off by a large fish which runs beyond the length of your fly line (not likely).

If you are confused as to which end of a fly line to attach to your reel and it isn’t marked with an “attach to reel” tag, look at both ends of the line. If it is a DTF or double taper floating line, attach either end to the reel, as both ends are exactly the same. If it is a WFF or weight forward floating line, the end of the line, which has the same (thinner than the rest of the line) diameter for 30 feet or more, is to be attached to the reel. If the line is a level L line, F/S floating/sinking, or S sinking line it is recommended that you not use it and acquire one of the two floating types mentioned above.

Note: Caution should be taken to keep from nicking or knotting or catching the new fly line in the reel. This can ruin a new fly line from the git-go. Most fly shops will properly fill a reel with the appropriate backing and fly line at the time of purchase.

What is a leader and why do I need it?

I’ve followed your advice and have this incredibly expensive line ($30-50) and I still need a leader. What the hay? Yes, you still require a connection between that gold plated line and the fly. The reason is stealth. Your fly line is a hollow or solid core of plastic that should be of a floating nature (there are other types of fly line, but, beginners need to start with a floating line). The connection (leader) from the fly line to the fly is a clear, tapered monofilament line 7 ½ foot to 9 foot long (similar to spinning line only tapered to a certain X or size). The leader is what allows the fly fisherman to fish directly to a feeding trout without splashing that heavy, expensive line over him and scaring him into the next day. Leaders are tapered for stealth from a thickness of about 40 pound test strength at the tie in with the fly line, tapered down to 3 or 4 pounds breaking strength where the fly is tied onto the leader. A tapered leader is also better in transferring your casting stroke into a straightened leader that puts your fly directly in front of that expensive fly line.

Novices have been known to break off numerous flies ($2.00 each) when learning to cast on stream due to the fragile nature of the leader. Tapered leaders are the most delicate (read most easily broken) of the rod-to-fly connection. Some trout in heavily fished areas are spoken of as being leader shy. This means that a heavy (think 20# test monofilament) leader makes a small fly act unnaturally to the fish (like tying a rowboat to a dock with a 2” thick rope). It is recommended that the beginner use a heavier tapered leader to overcome the tendency to break off a fly when casting difficulties occur (3X or 4X). It is also urged that beginners, fish where less educated fish live (see Battling the Beaver Dams in the fishing section of this web page).

It must be pointed out that when numerous flies are broken or cut off the tapered leader, the leader monofilament, since it is tapered, becomes thicker. This is a common problem with beginning fly fishers who suddenly realize that their leader end is thicker than the fly hook eye opening. Plus, it is getting real hard to tie the fly on the leader due to the thickness of the leader end. This is a problem that is solved with a section of thin non-tapered monofilament called tippet, which is usually carried on a small roll. Tippet is rated in X or its breaking strength in pounds. The X ratings usually associated with trout fishing are 3X up to 7X (6X and 7X are not recommended for beginning fly fishers).

Typical breaking strengths for 3X to 7X tippets or leaders

3X 6 lb.
4X 5 lb.
5X 4 lb.
6X 3 lb.
7X 2 lb.

Note: Tapered leaders that you buy are generally rated in X strengths and their lengths. Lengths are generally 7 ½ foot to 9 foot or more. The added length is for more stealth as it lengthens the distance from that bulky fly line to the fly offered to the fish. The beginning fly fisher is directed to leaders of 7 ½ foot tapered to 4X. This gives the beginner the best chance of keeping a fly on the end of the leader while casting on stream, yet not getting a tangled mess on the end of the fly line. When the leader is beginning to shorten, due to the type of use mentioned above, it is recommended that a length of the right X tippet be added to the leader to lengthen it to the original length. This can be done indefinitely to extend the life of the leader and saves money on having to buy new leaders because of the shortening phenomena mentioned. Coils of tippet monofilament (not tapered) can be purchased at any fly shop in the required X or breaking strength to repair the tapered leaders mentioned above. It is highly recommended that all fly anglers carry tippet rolls for leader reconstitution on stream.

The importance of knowing and tying knots can not be over stated in fly fishing. A simple knot primer for the beginner can be found on the web at: http://www.killroys.com/knots/knots.htm

Reels and their use

Unlike the spinning reel, the fly reel is used primarily to store the line when it is no longer in use. It is true that when battling a larger fish, the reel drag may come into use to slow down a fleeing trout (this happens so rarely for the beginner as to not constitute a reason to buy a pricier reel. The primary use of a fly reel is to store the fly line in a safe place so that it doesn’t become nicked and unusable for casting. The price for fly reels is all over the lot. Suffice to say that their limited use leaves the beginner to be able to save big bucks here. The reel should not be so heavy, as to unbalance the rod. Traditionally, the balance point of the rod with the reel attached should be where the angler’s hand holds the rod. Balancing the length of the rod with the counter-weight of the reel. This is important to the angler, as it helps to keep the use of the outfit from causing undue fatigue. Let the fatigue come from retrieving the flies from the surrounding grass, bushes and trees.

It is highly recommended that all beginning fly fishers take a casting course from a reputable fly shop. These can be very reasonable when taken in a group. Taking a casting class will improve your abilities faster than any other activity and allow you to catch that first fish much sooner. Engaging a fishing guide for casting lessons is expensive and not suggested (fishing guides are to help you improve your on stream skills, including some finer points on your casting, not to teach you how to cast).

Auxiliary items of use to every fly-fisherman

There are a number of items that the fly angler typically carries (besides flies) that make life on stream much easier. These items are generally cheap and easily purchased at either a discount store or fly shop. It is always a good idea to make a token purchase of a few flies or one of these items when quizzing a local fly shop about the fishing (especially if you’re in a new fishing area). You’ll still get information without a purchase, however, it is considered ill mannered to ask and run. If you are a Trout Unlimited member, it is always a good idea to let the local fly shop know that you appreciate their contributions to your chapter (see the advertisers in the chapter newsletter).

Items of use:

Nail clippers for cutting leader or tippet
Small pliers or hemostat for pinching down barbs on flies, placing split shot on the leader for subsurface fishing (yes, even with a floating line), removing flies from the mouths of all the trout you will soon be catching and hopefully releasing.
A bottle or plastic container of siliconized fly floatant (in a pinch this can be a dab of Vaseline for coating dry flies to keep them from getting water logged).
A small piece of rubber sheet or eraser for straightening that curled leader you’ve been popping.
Split shot is used just like you do in spin fishing except you must be able to cast what you put on your leader with your fly line. It is recommended that the beginner go easy on using split shot until he or she is confident on their fly-casting abilities. The messes that split shot can cause on a leader are not to be believed.
Buy a fly-fishing vest or chest pack to store the vast quantities of junk that you’re sure to accumulate over the coming years.
Polarized sun glasses in either a tan or gray shade (these allow you to cut the light glare off the water and will allow you to see those beauties beneath the surface). These don’t have to be expensive. They can be bought for less than $20.00.
Don’t be stupid. Buy a hat and sunscreen since fishing tends to be a long-term outdoor activity. Colorado is a relatively high altitude state and this means UV exposure can be extreme. Skin cancer is no joke. Take precautions.

Flies

This is a whole library of books in itself. This article does not pretend to encompass the full range of flies available to modern fly fisher. Numerous books have been written on this subject and many more are to be written in the future. I will try to guide the novice fly guy or gal into general categories of fishing flies.

Nymphs- These flies are those fished subsurface (yes even with a floating fly line) which mimic the larval or pupal form of most aquatic insects. These flies also mimic subsurface food forms such as freshwater shrimp.

Dry Flies- As indicated, these flies float on the water’s surface and are popular in Colorado’s many fly fishing rivers and lakes. Many fly-fishermen fish nothing else.

Wet Flies- Theses flies, though out of favor these days, are very effective fish catchers and good patterns for beginners. You won’t see many of these types of flies at most fly shops. They mimic aquatic insects, which return to the stream’s waters to mate or are drowned and float below the surface down stream.

Emergers- These flies are relatively new and are a hot pattern right now. They represent the insect in an in between transition. This fly floats half in and half out (think nymph-dry fly combination) of the water. This vulnerable position is one that trout like to take advantage of. Either on stream or in a lake, they are a good bet.

Streamers- These flies generally try to emulate a subsurface minnow, leach, or crayfish. These flies are usually good for larger fish. Many smaller fish in a stream or lake don’t eat other fish. The larger ones often do. ‘Nuff said.

Terrestrials- This is a variation on the theme of dry flies. These flies try to mimic land insects that have fallen into a stream or lake and become trout food. A classic terrestrial dry fly is the grasshopper. These are usually fished with great success in late summer and early fall.

Again, your local fly shop can give the beginner much valuable information on fly type and how and where to use them.

There are many more patterns and types of flies out there. As you travel the fly-fisher trail, you will become familiar with most of them. You may even want to tie your own special patterns. It’s an awesome past time. Enjoy it to the fullest.

Do I need boots or waders?

These items are not absolutely necessary for fly-fishing success. Generally fly-fishers use boots or waders to get into an advantageous position in the stream to fish a certain lie where fish are thought to be. When fishing larger lakes or streams it may be smart to have boots or waders to allow an angler to approach within casting distance (not in the hole with the trout) of the likely holding lies of trout (note: trout will always be holding in a spot just out of reach of your best cast).

With the purchase of a pair of waders, the angler takes on the responsibility of knowing his or her limits when wading in fast moving or deep water. All waders should be worn with a nylon belt for cinching tight around the angler’s waist in the event of a fall. This keeps water from flowing into your waders and having the weight of the water, drag you into a deep hole. The above scenario is one, which is all too often the reason that an angler is drowned especially on a large and powerful river. Know your limits and don’t exceed them. Boots or waders are usually not required in medium or small streams.

Typically in Colorado in summer, the tendency is to wet wade on warm and sunny days. This can be quite refreshing and is a very inexpensive way to get around your fishing stream (and not a bit elitist). Wet wading shoes vary from tennis shoes to specifically made fishing boots. Rocks in most trout streams can be quite slippery at times. Caution is advised whenever you are on-stream or in-stream. The temperature of lower elevation streams during summer is usually warm enough that it isn’t painful to wet wade. This isn’t true of the higher elevation streams and lakes. In these environs it is advisable to wear neoprene booties or hip boots or waders with neoprene feet to ward off the effects of the very cold water on your feet (painful).

Wading Boots which fit over the neoprene feet of most waders. Even the most fashionable stocking foot, breathable waders need a pair of wading boots to complete them for on-stream use. These boots range from cheap to pricey and should be purchased only when buying stocking foot waders or boots for the proper fit over the waders or boots. If they are too small, you’re in for trouble on-stream.

A Landing Net

To be used to gently land all of your fish. Rough handling of any fish will kill them, even if they are released back into the river. If you do not know how to handle a squirming and slippery fish, please ask someone who knows how it is done to show you the basics. Picture taking, should be done by someone near by who quickly snaps a picture if you lift the fish out of the water and just as quickly put it back into the water for release. Dead fish make for very poor pictures. If you decide to keep the fish, take a picture of it alive before dispatching it.

A Camera for taking a picture of that first fish

In Colorado it is not too unusual to carry a camera to picture the surrounding mountain grandeur. Cameras for fishing should be compact and easy to carry. They also should do double duty for scenery shots. Few cameras are waterproof. A good compromise would seem to be a disposable camera. Some of which are waterproof.

Remember, if you take up this past time, you will buy many more of the useful and not so useful items that I have mentioned. “It’s guarawnnteeed,” as Justin used to say.

On-stream ethics

Too little has been imparted to beginning anglers about conduct while fishing, whether spin or fly-fishing. What is meant by the term “stream ethics” is simply common sense and consideration of others while on-stream. You probably have a pretty good idea of your ideal fishing situation on-stream. You need to see to it that the ideal in your mind is practiced while you’re fishing your favorite stream or lake. The most criticized behavior is as follows:

1. Fishing too close to another angler. Not everyone sees this the same way. When in doubt, ask your fellow angler if you’re too close. Don’t wait for a confrontation. Be up front about being new to the sport or a particular river. You may meet some pretty cool people this way. Don’t just ignore boorish behavior by a fellow angler who is immune to common courtesy. Make your wishes known if you think you have the right to a pool or hole by virtue of being there first. Don’t be too surprised if you are ignored. Some people have few scruples while on-stream. These folks are usually uninformed beginners or poor fishermen who believe that they need to cheat to succeed while fishing. Don’t blow a gasket! Be generous and stay cool. Remember, you’re out to have fun, so don’t let some clod ruin the day for you.

2. Fishing a favorite pool too long when there is a line waiting for a chance. This is a situation that doesn’t come up too often in the west when fishing small or even medium size rivers (you wouldn’t believe the situation on popular eastern streams). It generally comes into play when fishing a larger river or stream that is popular (read close to a road or not a long walk from a road). There is a hierarchy or pecking order on high use rivers that says there is a certain amount of time any one angler or party may continue to fish a popular or unique pool (this by no means covers the whole river and lesser lies are usually open to indefinite fishing time). There is no hard or fast time set for this activity. Suffice to say generally you’ll know if a queue starts to back up on the trailside of the river. I would say that 1/2 to 1 hour is sufficient fishing time unless a particular hatch is on the water. If that is the case, it might be advisable to invite a couple of other anglers into the pool to try their luck (and more people usually hold the pool). Once again, you may meet some really cool people this way.

3. Fishing a pool that is already taken. Most people find this disturbing. Especially if you enter the pool from the upstream end (most people fish from downstream to upstream in a pool. This is like trespassing to the original angler. Cutting off an angler by fishing just upstream from him is sure to elicit a comment or curse. Don’t do it, because you wouldn’t want someone to do it to you. If a pool is unusually large, there is a chance that two anglers may use it at once. Typically two normal length casts (40-50 feet not your usual cast) should separate the anglers and they should never be fishing the same piece of water or lie at one time. Usually this is done by prior agreement between the two anglers.

4. Dogs. Everyone’s pooch is precious to them. This is not a universal feeling. Dogs probably cause more trouble on-stream than any other cause. Know the rules about your dog in the area you intend to fish. Busy streams or rivers are no place for even the most, well-behaved dog. I love ‘em, however, this is no place for Fido to fetch or swim into another angler’s fishing spots. Unless you’re going hiking in the high country, keep the dog on a leash or at home.

5. Loud music. There is a reason that fly-fishing is known as the quiet sport. Nuff said.

6. Wading across a river or hole in front of a fisherman or fisherwoman. This is a no-no anytime. You wouldn’t like it any more than the angler you did it to. It is always best when on-stream to keep wading to a minimum. Stirring up sediment by wading upstream of an angler is poor sportsmanship as well. Keep it unobtrusive. Stealth is required when fishing. Splashing and sloppy wading will cost you more fish than haste will gain you.

7. Hurrying upstream to cut-off another fisherman. This is generally only a problem on smaller streams where pools are few and far in between. If you’re going upstream of another fisherman, go at least a quarter mile or more above him and out of his line-of- sight.

8. Don’t be a hog or loudmouth, if you’re in luck while fishing. Most anglers will respect those who whoop it up while catching a large or spectacular fish. Since this is unlikely for the beginner (not impossible, I just said unlikely) bragging about every fish caught is not cool.

9. If you ever want to be welcomed back to a secret spot or on privileged private water, make sure to be a good guest. Don’t keep fish or mishandle them while in someone else’s special spot. Be generous with your knowledge, especially with beginning anglers. Don’t divulge someone’s secret spot, even if they’re not so secret. Be generous with your knowledge, especially with beginning anglers. Discretion being the better part of valor, keep in mind that some things should remain secret (some fishing buddies might kill you).

10. Have a back up plan in case a fishing spot is too crowded or weather impaired. Don’t force yourself into a miserable situation. This often leads to finding new and more interesting places to fish. Let someone know of your changed plans for safety sake.

Good fishing, Richard Luce

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